The base of the tip must be perfectly flat before gluing to the ferrule. To achieve this use 800 grit paper (Wet & Dry, paper always dry). Place the 800 grit paper onto a perfectly flat surface. Take the tip, remove the grade label and rub onto the paper in a figure of 8 until the fibres are exposed but look sealed and smooth. Remove dust from bottom of tip. The tip is now ready to be fitted to the ferrule. N.B. Never score or cut the bottom of the tip with a Stanley knife. The base must be perfectly flat and smooth.
With a Stanley knife, carefully remove the old tip. Be careful not to cut into the brass ferrule in any way. There will be some of the old cue tip and glue still on the ferrule, carefully cut this excess away. Using the flat of the blade against the ferrule, rotate the cue around shaving off the excess glue. This will make the ferrule flat. It is vital both the tip and ferrule are perfectly flat before gluing.
Gluing The Tip:
We use a type of gel-based super glue called Gorilla Glue Super Glue Gel (green lid). With masking tape, cover the ferrule to avoid glue getting onto the ferrule. Make sure you shake the bottle well and apply to the top of the ferrule, put on a decent amount to cover the entire ferrule. Now get the tip and push onto the top of the ferrule, quickly centre the tip and push down and hold for 15/30 seconds. The glue will squeeze out of the sides of the tip/ferrule onto the masking tape, make sure to avoid getting and glue onto the bottom of the tip. Leave to set for ~5 minutes then carefully wipe away the excess glue. After leaving the tip for ~30 minutes, remove the masking tape.
Shaping Your Tip:
After ~60 minutes your tip should be ready to cut and shape. We recommend a Stanley knife with a new blade to trim your tip. Any overlay (such as when a 10mm tip is placed on a 9mm ferrule) can be trimmed by carefully paring the excess by slicing the tip in line with the cue but always away from the ferrule. Turn your cue upside down to do this process, tip pressing against a perfectly flat surface. Once finished you will have the tip sitting flush to the ferrule. We recommend a 1-inch wide, flat, fine file to shape the tip and make sure that you only ever shape in a downward motion. Never shape upwards or you will disturb the fibres and ruin the tip. Once the desired shape is achieved we use Century Pro Burnishing Wax to burnish the side-walls of the tip. This strengthens the side-walls and minimises side-wall fibre breakouts. We do this by starting with 1500 grit (Wet & Dry paper, always dry) cut into 5mm wide strips. Mask the ferrule and carefully apply a small amount of wax to the sides of the tip. With 1500 wet & dry, carefully rub around the sides of the tip. Once completed do this again but use 2000 grit, then 2500 grit and finish with 3000 grit. You will see that the sides of the tip now look very dark and highly polished. Should your tip require a further re-shape, tap the surface of your the tip with your file. Your tip is now finished and ready to use. N.B. Never use sandpaper or anything else other than a fine file to tap and shape your tip.
Tip Maintenance & Aftercare:
Your Century Pro Cue Tip is now ready to use. On many occasions no “bedding-in” is required. You may prefer to play with your new tip for a few sessions before using it in tournament play. If you need to rough up the tip after a period of use, use your file and tap around the surface of the tip. The only item you will need to keep your tip in top shape and condition is a fine 1-inch wide metal file.
If you require any further information please don’t hessitate to email CC team at email@example.com